DUBRAVKO LAPAINE HAPPY NEWSLETTER
Hot windy news from Space and Earth




August 1, 2009

‘Long didgeridoo’ journey

Many things are changing in the didgeridoo world. I notice more and more players enjoy the richness of the deep didgeridoo underworld. I have some new ideas, and works about it, so hopefully it will inspire you in some way that will surprise me later.
There are two aspects what I would like to talk about.
The Joint and The Model.
Since the beginning of my long didgeridoo journey, like everyone who has done it, I’ve had a question how to assemble didgeridoos together. Of course, this is solvable in many ways, and some are much better than the other.
Let’s see the list of things that must be respected.
1. The point is that we can release the joint and disassemble the didge
2. The joint must be airtight
3. It must be either firm enough not to break when force is applied on one end, or flexible
4. Visually acceptable for live performances. So no nude people holding your didgeridoo tight.
5. Doable in reasonable amount of time, otherwise you lose the will to practice or perform.

So far I’ve done it in at least 4 different ways…
First. The tape joint. That is very simple to do, and it works. It is good that it is like that so anyone can try deep didges, not only (successful) rocket scientists.
Second. I made an epoxy/fiberglass joint. For a C didge i played in intro of Storytellingstories. Of course the joint wasn’t perfect enough and I still had to use tape. Only this time, only very little.
Third. The screws joint. It was done for the 10 meter didgeridoo for Storytellingstories. It had some rubber for sealing the joint. But it still needed some tape at some places. And the problem was that the joint was breaking under huge mass of 10 meter didgeridoo. So the whole didge had to be supported on many places during and after assembly.
Fourth. The inox joint. The new joint. It seems to work.

joint1To do the model with some sense demanded a certain amount of didgeridoo experience.

But what does it take to make a deep instrument. Let’s do a little maths.
Let’s say (define) deep didgeridoo is the one which has a basic drone about an octave below “normal” didgeridoo and has at least one toot that sounds like a ‘normal’ didgeridoo. First point of deep instruments where I found it reaches some acoustical satisfaction is around 4 meters. The shape of it is around 20cm at the bell. If you look at that instrument, it has about 3 times the length, 2 times the width in both directions. 3×2x2 = 12 times bigger volume than “normal” didge. So you have to take off and dig out 12 times more wood…How does it sound? It sounds like you will not have many of those didges to try.
So what I did at some point, I took my collection of didgeridoos and made almost every possible joint that made even a bit sense. I found only three didges that made sense. But one made especially lots of sense. It is the combination of g/g# didgeridoo (long conical) I often play  in a duo with Marko Ritoša (Kongoh, Rescribi, Ljubičasto), and the fourth wooden part of 10 meter didgeridoo, a big resonator box. I will not go in details now why I like this sound so much, but I will give you an example;
Arhanđeo svega čudnog
Do you understand?

I have thought about it before, but the final impulse was the gig at JT festival, where I could not go by car, and I do not take my “original” didges to planes. The idea was to copy it, but intentionally not perfectly- otherwise I can’t learn enough from it. I had a bit more work that I thought it would be. For example, I decided to do a perfect joint without going to a metal turner. And it took me three days of work. I found out one thing; inox is sort of a HARDISH material. A bit resistant to any physical changes. So I first changed the his mentality, explaining him that he will be a very important “sound holder”- and this, off course,  is why this joint now works.

The sound. Well – it is what i hoped for. Very similar quality. Bit different sound properties. I still have some work to make it proper, and some ideas that I hope that will work that would make it more versatile. I will need a bit of Heaven’s help and it will be done in no-time.

I will present the sound when the tube comes from the workshop as I have no mean to record there properly.

joint2

in Didgeridoo - The Instrument, Making didgeridoos

{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Preston August 3, 2009 at 06:09

Great article! I would love to hear a sound clip of how that didge sounds now that you have put it all together.

Pamela Mortensen August 14, 2009 at 21:40

Thank you, Du! Great article. It has me curious about many things now. I’ll formulate some questions when I can get some time. :-)

Pam

Du September 21, 2009 at 20:45

Thank you Preston and Pam.
I still did not finish this instrument, as I had some other project to do, and summer dropped in. It now starts to wake again.
I did not plan to make any special recordings, but if you are really interested, I could do it. Just talk me into it. ;-)
See you around.
Du

Colas February 22, 2010 at 15:22

Thanks a lot for these tips !
I have a nice 3 meter oak branch I cut this summer, as soon as the weather gets better I start working on it (oak is supposed to move a lot, so… careful !) I will make it in two pieces.
I like your joints ideas, but I don’t have the equipement to do them, except for the tape only. I will try to make a bigger wooden cylinder, probably around 30 or 40cm long, in which both ends can fit. It will probably not be airtight, so I’ll have to figure out something… I will see when I have to, for now I prefer not to think too much ;)
I will let you know how it turns out!

Thanks again, and take care
Colas

Du March 1, 2010 at 08:38

=)
To tell you the truth dear Colas, I am not as happy with this joint as I was before. It is a bit problematic because of two things; it’s principle in relation to size, and it’s material. Material is simply too hard to be directly joining in this precision I could make it. It can be done better, but I am not sure it would work even then.
The other thing that did not work out perfectly is the didge itself. It is right in tone and toots, but in sound quality it is too bright for what I like. I like the “dark juice” of it’s prototype better. Also, I messed up the impedances a bit, so it is not so smooth and fulfilling to play.
When you make your didge, think about the position you will play it in, and regarding to that make your joint. Watch the angles!
Good luck,
Du

Colas March 5, 2010 at 21:57

oooh I will watch the angles !! It is not exactly the straight kind of branch, so angles will give me a few headaches I’m afraid… some old pictures here :
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2687/imgp1770d.jpg
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2445/imgp1771c.jpg

I’m not sure what you mean by “Material is simply too hard to be directly joining in this precision I could make it”. You mean you could’nt make the two surfaces “parallel” enough so it touches perfectly on the whole length of the tubes ?
Maybe there is a possible hybrid solution, with more flexible material… have you noticed the “woodslide” didgeridoos in Airvault ?
http://www.francedidgeridoo.com/bannierewoodslide.gif
If you have tried them you may have noticed the joint system, which allows perfect sliding (not too esay, not too hard) and no air leak. Basically it is a ring over the end of the inner tube with two layers. The first one is expanding foam to keep the pressure on the whole surface , and above it to make it slide in there is a thin layer of a sliding material (teflon). I don’t know the details of how it’s made but it seems possible to adapt this with the same kind of joint you made.

By the way, I happen to live near Dijon so I will be at your workshop in May :) my piece of oak may (or may not) be hollow by then !

Until then take care and good luck with your new joints!
Colas

Harm April 3, 2010 at 18:32

Why not make a didge out of fiberglass or epoxy?
Once you have made it, you can saw it into 2 or 3 pieces
and glue a metal or fiberglass pipe in 1 end (protruding 10 cm)
where 2 pieces connect.
Lightweight and easy to build.
And contrary to what people think, you can make a fiberglass
or epoxy didge sound very ‘dark’.

- Harm

Du April 3, 2010 at 19:35

Hello Harm!
Thank you!
I realized I have made my first answer too complicated. So in my second attempt I will reduce everything to the essential.;-)
Your proposition is interesting. But I am not sure how you mean it, or that I can make it. Epoxy/fiberglass isn’t my best field. I would be very interested if you made it, to see it.
Cheers!
Du

Du April 3, 2010 at 20:30

Hello Colas!
The oak log looks very nice! The bell is quite big, isn’t it? Do you aim at any key?

You understood well what I meant. I am considering now many ways of joint making. The O ring is one of the possibilities, for sure. It has some problems due to the size and adjustment so it can slide inside, but not slide after that… Oh well, after some tries and errors, best solution will shine! Probieren geht über studieren. ;-)

I look forward to seeing you again!

Du

Colas April 22, 2010 at 18:17

Hello !
I have no idea what key it will be, most likely around E or F, but I haven’t decided what shape I will give it… I need to experiment a little more ! I recently made a great 2m20 G/B/G with a 8cm bell, and now I’m currently working on a 2m45 hazelnut. Basically I’m trying to make another needle with a bell : a 40cm long cone ending ~15cm, this shloud be around A or A#. And if I like it the oak will be the same with an even bigger bell (not much bigger but a lot longer : 20cm over 80-100cm)
I’m glad we can discuss all this next month !

See you soon ! It is going to be a huuuge week-end :)
Colas

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: